A Yorkshire Christmas
A Festive Inspired Break in York (November 2024)
Festive Country to City Short Break
I thought I’d share my little annual festive break to York including a few tips for having a great trip!
Who doesn’t love the festive build up to Christmas? Where the streets are alive; lit with the warmth of many joyful festive lights accompanied by the smell of firepits and hot chocolate in the cold air. I love it. As such, once late November rolls around, I try to spend as much time as I can, immersing myself into the seasonal glow that is uniquely created at this time of year. There is no need to panic or rush – just step back, steep yourself into the atmosphere, and enjoy!
I have always been captivated by the delights of North Yorkshire; in fact, if I didn’t live where I live now, I’d probably live there. I still might – one day. Imagine this: walking vast stretches of the breath-taking Cleveland Way (que the long-distance walker in me), whether that be among the picturesque purple heather clad moorland, or, blowing the cobwebs away along those rugged and majestic coastlines. How about enjoying fish and chips (add plenty of salt and vinegar) in the quaint seaside town of Whitby? Or sitting beside a crackling fireside in the exquisite Gisborough Hall Hotel enjoying a nightcap after the wilds of the aforementioned moors? Witnessing the aggressive turbulent waves crashing up to the deserted seafront in Saltburn in December is something I’ll never forget – snatching my glimpses through the condensation on the café window, as I sit and enjoy a hot drink. The fabulous town of Harrogate holds a special place in my heart and not least, the majestic Castle Howard and surrounding Howardian hills are nuggets of gold that then lead me towards that grand old city of York. There is so much that is attractive about this area.
I’ve done all of those options, and more, at some point over the last few years. For a while now however, a festive break combining time at Castle Howard with a day trip into the city of York has been an annual festive treat that I’ve come to really look forward too.
Festivities at Castle Howard
Castle Howard of course, can be a superb experience whatever time of year you choose to visit. I particularly enjoyed a visit one year during the autumn months around my birthday when the skies were clear blue, and the gardens were a wash of vibrant autumnal colours – a medley of every possible shade. The views were far reaching, the sun warm and the woodland had its own autumnal charm. As December rolls around, you can so very often find yourself amongst a wave of mist; suddenly you’re captivated as a subject within your very own watercolour painting – one that is steeped in history; the backdrop around you a wash of suggestive smudges of colour, blending to soft greys as late afternoon falls.
Around the festive season, however, this is when the atmosphere really does deliver that extra helping of childlike magical charm. The Christmas theme at the house this year was ‘Alice’s Christmas Wonderland’ and for the first time, I had also booked an Afternoon Tea – a true Madhatter’s Tea Party beckoned!
Only last year, I recall sitting wrapped in the joy and warmth of the Christmas marquee area; taking in the scents and uplifting festive sounds, sipping a seasonal latte as I looked out at the grey clouds rolling in, while snowflakes swirled in the air. It was magical. This year, the weather was a little more forgiving – there was a sharp nip to the air, but it was possible to enjoy the charm of the gentle winter sunshine, which at given points gave the illusion of shimmer upon the lake.
‘The Courtyard’ entrance is a lovely space; adorned with a beautiful festive tree and a firepit – the atmosphere is really starting to envelope me now as the woodsmoke from the firepit drifts into the air. It’s a smell I love, and already I’m imagining an evening wrapped up warm, captured in the firelight, toasting those marshmallows. Here in the courtyard is also where the farm shop is located. It’s a perfect space just to take time, look around, take in the atmosphere and literally soak it all up. It’s a fine start to an incredible experience. A new addition this year, was the Betty’s pop up shop in the courtyard. The cakes looked divine but were incredibly expensive!
The walk down to the house from the courtyard is a good pathway that runs alongside the walled garden (closed for winter maintenance this time of year) and gives ample opportunity to take in the sweeping views to the left and down towards the lake. Upon arrival, the Christmas Marquee is as lively and vibrant as ever, offering a good space to sit, drink or eat and there are some lovely gifts for sale in the shopping area. Seating is plentiful, and in addition to the main area, there’s a bank of small tables set up along a walkway, the chairs decorated with cosy faux fur throws. Scandinavian cabin type vibes adorn! I managed to do some Christmas shopping here and even picked up my favourite variety of York Gin – ‘Old Tom’, but first it was time to experience the Mad Hatters Afternoon Tea in the Grecian Hall.
The setting was wonderful, the only gentle light in the hall was that cast by the soft glow of the quaint table lamps, Christmas tree lights and a fire burning in the grate. For atmosphere, you’d struggle to do better. There were also additional drinks on offer from the bar, such as fizz or coffees, as well as your standard pot of tea (with a choice of teas). After a near on three-hour drive (the traffic on the M62 was horrendous around Huddersfield and as such I was hugely delayed), the rich flavour of the restorative tea was most welcome. Ah, to die for - that moment where you sit back, soothing and flavoursome tea in hand, breathe out and relax; taking in the surrounding stonework, the atmosphere and feeling the nuances of decades gone by. And this was what this short break was all about. Pure escapism. Whether in Castle Howard or the city of York, you are transported back through history – perfect for just letting your mind wander. Letting yourself experience the wonder like a young child, when nothing else mattered, and story books were full of old-fashioned Christmases. Today was that day. The cakes at the Madhatter’s tea party were very unique, exquisite in fact, and there was even the special ‘drink me’ potion handed out. If I had to be critical, I could have done with a couple more sandwiches!
City of York
When it comes to festivities, the walled city of York does not fall short. That said, no matter where you are, it’s hard not to lose yourself amongst the joy that is so often cast by the bustling festive markets and the scent of hot dogs and cinnamon. I’ve enjoyed many a vibrant Christmas theme, from Berlin to Bolesworth, and I’d love to experience Knaresborough too, but there’s something special about York.
There’s a delightful vintage carousel in Kings Square which really portrays a ‘vintage Christmas’- it’s always good to see it lit up of an evening after dark, like a scene straight out of an idyllic children’s fairy-tale.
That said, October is also a unique time to visit, when you’ll see plenty of decorations in shop fronts to honour the ‘Season of the Witch’. And it isn’t hard to appreciate a bit of spookiness, especially at Halloween time.
The city is steeped in history; so many quaint old buildings that will most likely always tell a story, or at least lead to one forming in your mind. There are cobbled streets, the ancient snickelways that take their narrow stone clad passages between the timber frame buildings adorned with gothic style lamps, and not least the majestic York Minster that from various vantage points dominates the view as it rises up above everything else. From gatehouse coffees, to a variety of shopping – think luxuary stores to vintage clothing specialists, to fine foods for your larder, there is plenty here. Not least, you can look out for the stone cat statues dotted across York (catsinyork.com).
York Highlights
Snickelways
You can find a map of York’s dark and narrow passages here: http://snickelways.co.uk/page18.html#A_BL
Taking in these unique little routes can’t help but make you think of a quintessential Victorian Christmas.
The Ivy (St. Helens Square)
Stepping into a more modern environment for a moment, and one of my favourite restaurants, is The Ivy. This year, I decided to do breakfast here. As usual it was absolutely fantastic! I don’t eat huge breakfasts, so this was a treat of the season. Seasoned scrambled eggs on sourdough, sausage, streaky bacon and a dollop of tomato sauce, all washed down with a nice English breakfast tea. Add in a refreshing orange juice (with ice) while taking in those sumptuous surroundings. It’s the perfect set up for the day ahead and it did actually keep me going all day – I didn’t fall hungry.
Fairfax House (Castlegate)
A place that has gotten close to my heart – deemed England’s finest Georgian Townhouse. Coming here and I’m transported to the splendour of a historical Georgian Christmas. As you take in the surroundings, you can almost hear the clatter of kitchen utensils as cook prepares lunch, or the gentle chatter and clink of glasses later in the evening as nightcaps are enjoyed – there’s elegance, refinement and extravagance all to be imagined, as it would have been in its day.
But that is not all, because it’s always fun to spend time observing what the Fairfax Townmice have been up to! These cute little Townmice are your constant companions as you explore! Last year presented a fabulous exhibition and this year it hit the mark too with the opportunity to attempt to solve the riddle of the stolen Fairfax ruby.
The little shop is a delight, the staff lovely and it’s always hard to resist the temptation to collect a couple of the varieties of handmade decorative mice on sale! They look great on the Christmas tree.
The Shambles and the Christmas Market
The heart of the old world. The narrow and cobbled streets and the ancient buildings are pretty and really do set the atmosphere. The Christmas market is charming and full of festive cheer as well as every beverage you could possibly want to enjoy. Take time to peruse the many chalets and just soak up the vibrant Christmas magic. I enjoyed my Baileys hot chocolate.
Shopping
I do love shopping in York. This year I stumble upon a fabulous pre-loved designer clothing shop which had some absolute gems for sale and at really good prices. There’s the fabulous Wild & Westbrooke where I managed to source some long-awaited jeans, a fedora hat and a tweed skirt – W&W are great if you love your country inspired fashion. There’s too much to mention really, but everything is here, and you’ll find many of your favourites on Stonegate.
York Minster
There is something eerie about wandering around the grounds of York Minster and it’s probably something you can never really tire of. This year, I managed to have my photo taken with a star bear – Paddington! He wasn’t keen to share his marmalade sandwich however. I was a little early, but if you arrive in York at the right time, you can catch the Christmas Tree festival at the Minster.
Ye Olde Starre Inn (Stonegate)
Its oldy wordy style perfectly complements its city location and this inn is bustling to the brim. Challenging to get seated, but if you’re patient you’ll get yourself a cosy corner. Once again you can feel the history closing in, it’s a proper cosy and vibrant pub steeped in tales of times gone by. What with still being full after the breakfast – I kid you not, I had a side of pigs in blankets and fries. The portions were pretty large for a side and the food was just lovely. I would highly recommend as a suitable stop off point!
Fancy a similar break? Here are some details and recommendations
Stay: Sandburn Hall which is north of York just off the A64 at Flaxton and very close to Castle Howard. It’s also very well located for the Monks Cross Park and Ride into York. My second year here at this fabulous hotel, which is fairly new. The rooms are spacious and clean, and the décor is tasteful. The hotel is set in stunning grounds and there is a nice bar in which to sit, relax and have snacks and a glass of wine. It’s just over £300 for 2 nights room only.
The on-site restaurant is next door (Tykes) and serves plenty of nice food for your evening meals and provides for a hearty breakfast (£17.50). Pricing is competitive, given it’s not in the city centre (so you get good value for money). I had extras such as chocolates £10 and a mini bar £30 provided in the room which was a welcome treat upon arrival. The staff cannot do enough to help you. I ate in the Tykes restaurant on one night and the meal was very satisfying and good value. I highly recommend as it’s a lovely setting and very convenient.
Monks Cross Park and Ride
This is the one to use if you’re staying at Sandburn Hall. It’s about £3.80 for a return ticket and is a very short ride into York town centre. Alight at Stonebow for all the central attractions. The buses run frequently between 7am till late – check the timetables for up to date information. You can also utilise the hop on hop off city tour bus once you get into town.
Useful Reading:
111 Places in York That You Shouldn’t Miss (Chris Titley)
Slow North Yorkshire Moors & Wolds (Bradt Travel Guides)
For dressing inspiration view my ‘country to city short break capsule’ post below:
