Sustainable Materials - Characterful Tweed
The Quintessentially British Fabric
Introduction
Tweed; a natural fibre textile fabric, roughly woven, usually from wool. Synonymous with the British countryside due to its weather resistance, it takes on many forms, be it flat caps, baker boy hats, breeks or the country style classic – the tweed blazer.
Both distinct and elegant, a good tweed jacket can be your wardrobe super-hero, and with many options for styling, it’ll work extremely hard in your wardrobe. It can loan itself to formality - think sharp three-piece suits. Or, it can take on activities that demand high durability and weather resistance - think sporting field jackets and breeks.
As such, it’s very much a mainstay fabric for the country clothing sector – whether it be worn as a fashion statement, or, for more practical endeavours out in the field. Without doubt, tweed is a quintessentially British fabric, one that will add a rural infused, sophisticated aesthetic, to almost any outfit.
History
With the majority of tweed originating from regions of Scotland in the nineteenth century, as well as Ireland (but also now produced in England and Germany), it was originally called ‘tweel,’ which is the Scottish word for twill – the most popular weaving technique for making tweed. Characterised by its robust makeup that would protect from a brutally cold and rainy climate, it began then, as a practical and functional fabric to offer up protection against foul weather. Sheep also adapt to harsh climates - we discussed wool and sheepskin in this previous blog (see below), hence, it goes without saying that Scottish wool is particularly well suited to tweed.
Sustainable Materials - The Unique Qualities of Sheepskin
Welcome to another blog! I thought I’d take some time to discuss natural materials and fabrics. Those that we consider to be sustainable, and are often utilised in country fashions. In this issue we’re making a start with sheepskin (and to a degree - wool).
In terms of look and feel, tweed often consists of dynamic patterns utilising different coloured threads, is hard wearing and stiff. Due to its properties, tweed has largely been associated with farmers, and later, with Scottish tradition, with landlords of estates designing their own tweed patterns to be worn exclusively by their employees. As a fabric, it evolved even more to then become associated with British aristocracy and country life, as shooting and hacking jackets were embraced by the upper classes around the 19th Century.
If you love tweed, then you may have heard of Harris Tweed, spun and finished in the Outer Hebrides (Scotland) and considered a world class British luxury fabric. Chanel, along with other notable high-end fashion houses have utilised Harris Tweed, which goes some way to sealing its desirability, and the high quality that we’re talking about. Incidentally, tweed wasn’t the only inspiration Chanel took from the countryside, the famous ‘quilted’ handbags were inspired by the saddle blankets witnessed at the horse races that Coco Chanel often frequented.
The production of Harris Tweed is a sustainable business / craft that supports local communities in the Outer Hebrides and champions British textiles. Indigenous crafts have been preserved, with hand woven cloth originating from the crofts. It’s a great representation of true islander community, and of skills passed through generations. Tweed then, can have a great story to tell. Often seen to mimic patterns in nature, I like the way it flashes back to, and implies a simpler, more traditional way of life. With that in mind, how can you not feel great wearing this amazing fabric!
High End Designers Embracing Tweed
As tweed became more established throughout English society after 1848, following the acquisition of Balmoral by the English royal family, its evolution certainly didn’t stop there. We’ve already alluded to the use of tweed in high-end fashion. Style icon, Coco Chanel, discovered tweed for herself while living in Scotland during the 1920’s. Dating the Duke of Westminster at that time, she frequently borrowed his clothes, mainly due to their practicality. It would set the future course for the fashion house and its subsequent workings with tweed. In 1954, Chanel showcased the tweed jacket to the world for the first time – combining it with silk and wool. The house’s tweed jacket, in all its variations, has since become a much loved piece that is iconic to the brand.
And while Chanel pushed tweed towards a more contemporary setting, in the mid-seventies, the iconic British designer Vivienne Westwood, first worked with Harris Tweed Hebrides to create a pair of bondage trousers. Later, circa 1987, Westwood created an Autumn/Winter Harris Tweed collection.
In very recent times, Dior also utilised fine local crafts people and artisans from Scotland to create a line of bespoke fabrics for their Mary Queen of Scots inspired pieces, forming part of their Cruise 2025 collection. You can watch the video here:
Tweed - Its Key Assets
Tweed Embodies Everything ‘Slow Fashion’
Tweed embraces all things slow fashion because it’s subjected to sustainable and ethical production. Manufacturing often supports local industry and artisans – Harris Tweed being a fine example, with many country brands also offering up products that are uniquely crafted in Britain.
"Tweed is a 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable fabric, minimising the environmental impact of manufacturing," says Martin Crawford, consultant at Anderson & Sheppard, the Savile Row tailor behind King Charles's double-breasted tweed coat. "All tweed manufacturers adhere to strict guidelines, and very much promote their green credentials."
Tweed Offers Up a Timeless Elegance
If you’re all about rocking a slow wardrobe, then tweed definitely offers up timeless pieces that will last a good long while. This is because they are highly robust and durable - another key benefit. A tweed outer layer, such as a long-line coat, cape or blazer, makes for a perfect statement piece in your wardrobe, remaining effortlessly classic.
Tweed is Multi-Functional and Characterful
Tweed clothing isn’t just about high-end fashion, whether it be Chanel or Dior. It’s multi-functional. And while you’ll find tweed pieces that are designed for long hard days in the rugged outdoors, being battered by the weather, you’ll also find more refined and dressier pieces (yet often still practical) from specialist brands synonymous with rural lifestyle.
Variety
With tweed comes masses of variety. There are many patterns available, from overcheck twill, herringbone, houndstooth, barleycorn and more - all of which add a rich diversity to this iconic fabric, not to mention the many colour-ways available. You’ll never get bored looking at designs. But not only that, it’s a highly textured fabric, adding character and contrast to your look with opportunity for plenty of juxtaposition.
Water Resistant, Windproof and Breathable
We’ve already touched on this - tweed is a great fabric for keeping you protected when the weather takes a turn for the worse. It will naturally resist moisture and wind, and because it’s made from wool, it’s naturally breathable, provides excellent insulation as well as ventilation and can even help you to stay cool when the weather gets warmer!
Introducing Tweed For a Contemporary Look
Unsurprisingly, tweed is no stranger to the catwalks. Each piece is unique and can therefore often display slight colour variations, adding to its eclectic, luxurious character, of course. So, let’s have a look at some of the ways you can assimilate tweed into your wardrobe.
The Sharp Suit
Arguably, no one does the sharp, tailored, British made tweed suit better than Holland Cooper. It’s an iconic look that is hard to miss. If you want to go all out on a formal, yet stylish look, fit for the likes of Cheltenham Festival and more, then this could be for you.
From high-waisted, tailored trousers to peg trousers, waistcoats and blazers of varying silhouettes, and not least, iconic trench coats, Holland Cooper have a wide variety of earthy colour-ways to inspire. Pair with brogues, bow-tie silk shirt, a structured bag and a hat. The perfect accessories? Think pearls and pocket chains, and you’re good to go.
Chic and Stylish – The Blazer
Inject some country aesthetic for a chic and versatile look. Whether its luncheon with friends, or a walk in the English countryside complete with a stop at a quaint pub, there’s probably a blazer out there that will elevate your look.
I like to pair my (Holland Cooper) field blazer with a Hermes scarf, a shirt and a leather look piped fleece – a layer effect. Add tonal skinny jeans and either long boots or Chelsea boots, for countryside walks. Want a slightly smarter look? Swap up the boots for a more elevated feel and add a fedora!
As mentioned previously, blazers offer up different silhouettes – if you’re shorter in the leg, you might want to opt for something like the Holland Cooper Knightsbridge blazer when pairing with high waisted trousers. Shop around to find the style that works for you.
On the Peg
For tough days in the field or out with the dog, opt for some classic breeks paired with wellingtons and finish off with a waterproof field coat. I like these breeks from Harkila. You can also layer up with a classic hoody like the British made Maude & Fox piece shown here, or one of their iconic tweed gilets - a fabulous blend of function with subtle splashes of lux - think vibrant satin linings.
Casual Day Look
A pair of tweed tailored trousers, or peg trousers worn with boots such as the Fairfax & Favour mid heel Regina, teamed up with a cashmere roll-neck, can offer up an easy, no fuss, daytime look. Just add a belt and your favourite bag. Want an alternative to trousers? Try a skirt, such as this British made Vantage Atelier piece.
More Dash than Cash?
Tweed accessories are great for adding that touch of luxury to your look without having to break the bank. Think quaint bows in your hair, scrunchies, or a well. made cap.
Remember, there are many options available to you for pairing your tweed, and it’s a great basis upon which to plan your capsule wardrobe, particularly during the shoulder seasons.
Eye catching or bolder tweeds are often best paired with neutrals, and if you’re opting for those very striking tweeds, then make this the focal point of the outfit and don’t let things get too busy.
Earthy and neutral tones always make for great combinations towards your tweed based look. A crisp white shirt (add silk scarf or tie), or bow-tie style silk blouse will all work wonderfully with a structured waistcoat. For a more laid-back appeal, a layering knit over a white long sleeve tee, or a cashmere roll neck are good options, particularly if temperatures are cooler.