Vintage Inspired
Capsule Wardrobe Planner - Embracing the Inspiration of Vintage
Setting the Scene
The colour palette I envisage when I’m feeling ‘very vintage’ are those tonal and sometimes muted browns, followed by khaki tones and also those rich mahogany hues not unlike the colour of highly polished antique furniture. Or even the subdued and aged red tones – think heritage cherry, of my vintage (1964) Gibson SG guitar! Texture wise, my thoughts hark towards heritage tweeds and sumptuous velvet. This all sets my mind on a journey.
The exceptional decor of the Orient Express comes to mind, along with classic boxy luggage pieces set down on platforms. The sanctuary of a stately home library – lively fire in hearth, creating shadows that dance across the high ceilings in the room while highlighting hints of secondhand books amongst old, but opulent, furniture.
I imagine reflection while enjoying a glass of port and a vintage cheese board. I see and feel the warmth in a tumbler of whiskey after a cold blustery day on the moors, just as the firelight emphasises its rich amber tones. There’s the smell and creek of aged leather, and the dim glow from ornate lamps. Majestic paintings, historic maps and family portraits always play a part and not least, an extravagant Christmas tree in a great hall. Come summer, there will be those civilised picnics by the lake, sat atop a Shetland wool vintage blanket, with leather handles, accompanied by the perfect hamper.
You might even want to imagine a dressing room with hints to the 1920’s because this blog and latest capsule wardrobe planner is all about exploring vintage (not necessarily 1920’s) and vintage inspired fashion.
Vintage Appeal
There is a lot to be said about vintage, from its endearing appeal and timeless charm to that sense of being able to create looks that are truly unique and one-off; an enabler of self-expression. In this instance I’m referring to the world of fashion, however, vintage is also very appealing in other areas too. We’ve seen desirability for antique furniture, historic family heirlooms and not least, in my case, vintage guitars – the early 1960’s being the most valuable and sought after. In terms of fashion, there are other advantages too. We are in a world that is now becoming increasingly aware of the impact upon the planet, and to some degree, going pre-loved / second hand, vintage really helps in supporting sustainable clothing choices. That, and looking for British made where possible, and embracing our heritage.
Pre-loved / second hand is nothing novel for me, I’ve always shopped in secondhand and charity shops for as long as I can remember. I’m the first to admit I like a bargain, so I can often be seen looking for the discounted new items too – it’s definitely worth it and with the internet it’s much easier than it used to be to source those bargains.
Bargains aside, like many other people, I’ve become increasingly aware of the impact (and undesirability) of fast (and often super cheap) fashion. Over consumption is also something that often plays on my mind. While there is nothing fundamentally wrong in going for cheap items, or purchasing new, there is a sense of immense satisfaction in driving a focus towards high quality (and often higher end) goods that will stand the test of time. And when we have an abundance of high-quality goods that are more classic as opposed to trendy, we can eventually reduce our consumption and focus on getting creative with what we have in our closets. If we can buy and support British made, even better, given it must surely leave less of a carbon footprint.
The Journey
For me, this theme of re-purposing and vintage items really came to the fore following my focus this year on self-care through exercise and as a consequence of that, dropping two (actually nearly 3!) dress sizes. I have always tried to invest in the highest quality items, where possible – I’d rather own one timeless Chanel dress, over buying numerous dresses every season (or whatever it happens to be) – but somehow this seems all the more important these days. So, during the course of 2024, I found that I could actually fit into the more high-end items that I’d invested in near on 20 years ago! That includes the said Chanel dress! This then fuelled my interest and enthusiasm to unearth other items I’d bought back in the early 90’s (but thankfully hadn’t disposed of) – a lovely pair of Prada shoes, a Prada handbag, and I thought indeed, why not re-purpose and start up-cycling these items to create new looks? And so, my journey began. Not only did I become more aware of, and take more of an interest in slow fashion, but I also began to look at styling items rather than just wearing them (something I never really did before), and I set about placing focus on finding hard working pieces that really supported the concept of longevity and a capsule wardrobe. Of course, focusing on self-care in midlife and getting back to my preferred weight led me to taking care over what I wore once again – I could almost liken it to reinventing myself.
I often find good quality useable items in charity shops (or thrift stores as I think they call them in some parts of the world), but I also look at what can be mended, or altered if needs be. I recently did this with a gorgeous vintage wool waistcoat I sourced from my local charity shop.
As Abigail Chisman, former Vogue.com editor-in-chief has said: “Fashion is how we signal our intent.”
As this month draws to a close and we become immersed in the festivities of the season, I’m definitely feeling those vibes of yesteryear, as my awareness continues to increase. From the wonderful scenes of old time white Christmases on seasonal cards and memes, there’s always that accompanying feeling of nostalgia. Aside all that though, there’s that element of vintage potentially becoming a lifestyle, and I definitely feel that connection. Maybe that’s because I’ve been visiting some heritage places of late, like Castle Howard, for example, or Fairfax House in York, where it’s possible to really immerse yourself in the sense of history that’s all around. Whatever, I’m definitely leaning towards wistful reflection.
In terms of countryside inspired fashion, there’s always that feeling of heritage, particularly when we’re talking tweeds, for example. Often, when browsing, you can pick up on this. Take brands like Ralph Lauren, or a recent discovery I made with a brand based in Berlin called Femkit, who advertise ‘clothes with a touch of yesterday’. There’s definitely lots of looks out there to whet the appetite for vintage and give us a sense of what to look for when rifling through those charity shops or browsing those pre-loved sites.
Over Consumption versus Sustainable Shopping & Creativity
This year, I have probably consumed more than I would ordinarily, and probably a little bit more than I’m comfortable with. This consumption is primarily due to my weight loss and having to source smaller items in order to have something to wear. That, and a varying lifestyle. Unfortunately, I didn’t keep every item from my smaller years, only those high-end items that had initially cost a lot of money. My long-term plan though is to maintain correct weight (give or take) and therefore maintain a seasonal capsule wardrobe that will work extremely hard going forward. For that reason, I do put a lot of thought into what I buy, to the extent where I probably overthink some stuff!
As I’ve got older, I have come to learn some important things – things which also (very conveniently) act to save me a lot of money! Crucially, that less is definitely more.
Aiming for less leads to mindful purchasing. It encourages you to purchase items that will work very hard in your wardrobe, those that will work with different pieces in a variety of ways.
Aiming to work with less also encourages you to obtain expert colour analysis so that you buy and wear only those items that suit you the very best. Ever noticed those people that sometimes wear the most fabulous clothes but somehow the clothes are wearing them? It’s definitely worth thinking about how to make the right choices for the longer term. Reducing waste is key, and if we impulse buy without really taking that time to examine what will work and what will actually suit us, then the piece ends up redundant in that you just don’t end up reaching for it further down the line.
These days I’m non-plussed by racks of coats and shoes and the same handbag in every seasonal colour variation of the last six years, or having to have the ‘latest’ item or colourway all of the time. For me, (and everyone is different) its low priority. It’s just easier to get dressed when you know that everything you own is good quality, works together, is classic and looks good because it aligns with your needs. Even better if it aligns with your values, too.
With less, you are encouraged to be creative, which enables your individual personality to shine through in your dressing. At this point, it’s a good time to focus on pre-loved and charity shop buys. That key word – individuality. Now, if you can afford it, it’s quite easy to go out and buy every new item your favourite brand puts out, season after season, but let’s just focus for a minute on how very robotic and predictable that becomes, are you comfortable being that person? This is where I think pre-loved and charity shop buys really do come into their own, because not only can you have fun sourcing items, relishing in the spontaneity and unpredictability of it all, those items truly are one off and allow you to stage your individual flair with regards your styling. That, and the added satisfaction that you shopped smart, saved money, and maintained sustainable habits.
Charity Shops and Re-purposing of Existing Items
As said, I’ve become a fan of ‘shopping my closet,’ i.e. examining wardrobe contents and re-purposing items that have perhaps not been utilised in years, while also seeing what is out there in the charity shop. As said, I recently unearthed many items that had initially been expensive, some twenty (or in some cases thirty) years ago, but had not been used in recent times, either because I ‘didn’t do fashion anymore’ or they simply no longer fitted me. This means I’m having fun re-purposing and re-imagining those items in a new context - which now appear truly unique and in a class of their own, and integrating them into the wardrobe that currently works for my lifestyle.
I’ve been wearing my vintage (20 years old!) Louis Vuitton sunglasses ever since I bought them in the US in 2006, as well as recently unearthing my vintage Louis Vuitton scarf of a similar age. All perfect condition. I’ve been excited by the fact that I’ve come to find a use for a very bespoke vintage Louis Vuitton bag - limited edition in fact, and one that I almost came to sell. It not only has a real vintage luggage vibe to it - those lovely graded tones that make me think antique style elegance, but for the first time, it has a proper place in my wardrobe alongside the rich tweeds I’ve come to love. I appreciate it now more than I ever did. I love the shape and style of my vintage Prada bag and shoes, and my few Chanel pieces now feel totally unique.
In terms of charity shops, I visit a few, but my favourite shop offers a whole antiquated experience in itself in terms of the look and feel of the store - from the old fashioned lamps instore, delicate jewellery and gloves, to the numerous second hand books, some which are quite clearly from decades gone by. It’s a shop full of relics from the past. This is where I found my recent and aforementioned vintage BB Equestrian wool waistcoat, which is a perfect companion to many of my khaki pieces this season, and at just £15 (with similar vintage items of the same brand selling on ebay in excess of £70). I also sourced some vintage kid gloves for £1 - so very dainty, super soft and delicate, and in another shop, some beautifully vintage looking long boots at a mere £20. Another favourite is a Laura Ashley aged leather blazer for £20. My sand/caramel coloured jeans were another charity shop buy at just £4 and they work extremely well with some of the items in my wardrobe and not only that, the colour is almost impossible to find in new items. I always get asked about them. They are very aged that is for sure, but I absolutely love them. I found an exquisite silk scarf, with vibrant pops of berry colour against navy for £10 and not least, a beautiful Miss Sixty velvet jacket in a rich green that I sourced for just £8 - a true vintage piece from around the late 90’s, even the lining is wonderfully vibrant. I’ve also spotted beautifully crafted high-end British tweeds at knock down prices. However, a word of warning. These pieces don’t stick around for long, and I urge you to be very patient and consistent in your searching, rest assured however, that they are most definitely out there.
Going onto sites such as Vinted etc can be a good way to source items, but they do tend to be a lot more expensive than charity shops, as I have seen when looking up any of the items I’ve been lucky enough to find in the charity shops. It’s worth remembering that you can also source new items in charity shops too. My Zara classic white fitted shirt, that I found for just £12 new, for me has turned out to be one of those ‘can’t live without’ pieces. The main point is that most of these items are truly unique and allow for a very individual look, and if you’re savvy, they won’t break the bank.
Bringing in the New
Of course, there’s nothing wrong with buying new. Again, I do try to be savvy and I have indeed managed to source discounted items, which is always easier now we have access to the internet and can do online searches for specific pieces. I’ve been wearing tweed for years, but its only in recent times that I see the whole country clothing thing being recognized as a fashion movement. There is something about tweed that is not only very country, but can also hold those golden vintage vibes too. My Dubarry Marlfield Tweed Field Coat is a classic example. Again, this was another high-quality investment piece, is very functional (gore-tex), and some ten years later (and counting) I am still wearing it on a very regular basis. It comes out every winter without fail. It’s in perfect condition and still feels and looks as good as it did new. I always get complements when wearing it. My Holland Cooper Field Blazer in Hailes Green Tweed is another investment piece, but a new addition to my wardrobe. It presents a timeless elegance - British made tailoring from the finest materials, in such a lovely earthy colourway. A blazer never goes out of fashion and is always going to give you a nice old money aesthetic, as well as a classic country look. The good thing is that this one, although purchased new, was discounted by £150! No idea why. Some stores just have discounted lines for some reason, even though you can still buy it at full price from many places. For that reason, it’s always worth an online search. I did the same thing with a pair of Fairfax & Favor boots recently and found them discounted by £45 at a local retailer, even though they have never come into a Fairfax & Favor sale.
My other investment this year was my Hermes Pampa Scarf. Again, it completely works with my chosen colour palette, and although new, its actually very vintage. Hermes do various re-editions of old designs and the Pampa scarf is exactly that - a re-edition in a Dip-Dye Washed silk, resulting in a really unique feel to it, one that gives a vintage look to a new scarf. The original print Pampa Scarf 90 was designed by Jean De Fougerolle in 1988 and the inspiration comes from the Argentinian Gaucho, a nomadic horsemen sweeping plains of the Pampas prairies.
The gaucho has long been a symbol of deep national pride for Argentina.
Jean De Fougerolle has a very distinctive style and his designs have similar particularities, with a keen eye for detail and a deep understanding of equestrian culture. In this instance, I treated myself for my birthday knowing I will utilise this piece over and over. It’s always interesting too, to research pieces of interest to see where the inspiration came from.
Talking of scarves, the recent Clare Haggas Caledonia design really drives a feeling of aristocracy and also works well with my LV bag.
While developing styling around these colourways and aesthetics I sourced the Fairfax & Favor Caramel leather gloves – the colour was absolutely perfect, and the Le Chameau green tassels work well to add to the boots. Accessories really can make all the difference and add those essential finishing touches. A word on croc leather. Croc really can give that impression of age. I’ve never been a belt person until recently and I found the Marks and Spencer (real leather, croc design) with brass buckle really does a great job, especially for a mere £15.
The Finer Details
Often, when it comes to putting together a capsule wardrobe consisting of a limited number of pieces, the finer details can often make a difference in terms of giving diverse variation to a key look. By this I mean accessories. It also presents a great opportunity to explore textures and materials. Playing around with these is a great idea, from vibrant velvet, country style tweed, rustic corduroy, rugged nubuck, deep mahogany aged leather, cosy wool, shimmery silk, coated canvas and aged brass hardware details. Even a string of pearls.
In terms of colourways, I have very much been building on khaki’s and brown’s (which tend to suit me) and this was mostly inspired by autumnal colours. Then there’s that occasional pop of berry/burgundy which of course signifies the season now! These colours team well with neutral tones too. I am a huge fan of neutrals as they offer up so many options with their versatility.
To conclude, everyone has different ideas and preferred ways to shop, and capsule wardrobes are not for everyone, and that is absolutely fine because there is no right or wrong way. I hope however that this article offers up a little inspiration - however you decide to use it.
Capsule Wardrobe Planner #5